Southern Corsica punishes anyone who tries to see everything: a hundred kilometres between two beaches, winding roads, mountain passes crawled at ten kilometres an hour behind a camper van. Our advice fits in one sentence: unpack in the middle, and travel out from there. Voici comment.
The principle: one base, seven days
Too many travellers lose half a day every time they change hotel. Our suggestion: take a villa in Figari, keep it for seven nights, and plan each day as a loop. You set off fresh each morning, you come home each evening, you have dinner on your own terrace. The trip becomes a stay.
“The real luxury on holiday is never having to repack.”
— Logbook
Day 01 — Arrival and settling in
Direct flight to Figari, hire car at the airport, and fifteen minutes later you are with us. First afternoon: pool, terrace, nap. No programme. In the evening, dinner in the next village at Le Relais in Sotta, or on your own terrace with whatever we have put in the welcome basket.
Day 02 — Bonifacio, the white cliff
Twenty minutes' drive. Bonifacio can be seen in a day, provided you leave early — high season there is intense. Park in the paid car park at the top, go down the King of Aragon's staircase, walk round the Bastion de France, have lunch at the harbour. In the afternoon, take the boat to the îles Lavezzi : thirty minutes at sea, translucent water, pink granite, snorkelling.
Not to be missed:
- The medieval citadel at sunrise
- The King of Aragon's staircase (187 steps cut into the cliff)
- The salt marsh at sunset
- A drink at the bar perched on the cliffs
Day 03 — Palombaggia and Santa Giulia
The beach day. Twenty-five minutes to reach Palombaggia from behind, then ten minutes across to Santa Giulia on the other side. Read our comparison of the two beaches to decide which suits your mood.
Our advice as owners: arrive before ten, or after four. In between it is a crush. In the morning the water is a mirror. Late in the afternoon the light on the sand becomes unreal.
Day 04 — Bavella, the Corsican mountains
A complete change of scene. Head for the Bavella pass, forty minutes of hairpin bends, and suddenly: the Needles. Cathedrals of pink granite rising to 1,700 metres. Several walks start here, including the famous loop to the Trou de la Bombe — manageable with a family, 2 hours there and back, a staggering view.
Lunch at the Auberge du Col (booking advised in season), then down the forest road towards Ospedale, its reservoir and its laricio pine forest. Back at the hamlet by late afternoon.
Coming home to the hamlet after a day in the mountains — the real luxury of a holiday.
Day 05 — A free day, doing nothing
After four full days, ease off. Pool, books, a nap, a long aperitif. A short outing late in the afternoon to the village of Sotta (5 min) or Pianottoli-Caldarello for charcuterie, cheese and wine from Domaine de Tanella. Barbecue on your terrace, in the golden July light.
Day 06 — The Cavu river
The Cavu river is our secret favourite. Thirty-five minutes north of Figari, you leave the car by the road, walk twenty minutes along a shaded path, and reach natural emerald pools tumbling down in a series of falls. Bring a picnic and river shoes, and stay the day.
Day 07 — Porto-Vecchio and the market
A quieter last day. In the morning, head for the market in Porto-Vecchio (Tuesday, Friday, Sunday) for things to take home. Wander the old town, have lunch at the harbour at A Casa Corsa, buy canistrelli and Corsican cheeses for the journey. In the afternoon, a last swim at Saint-Cyprien (quiet, intimate, 20 minutes away) before packing.
The week at a glance
| Day | Programme | Distance |
|---|---|---|
| 01 | Arrival and pool | 0 km |
| 02 | Bonifacio and Lavezzi | 40 km return |
| 03 | Palombaggia + Santa Giulia | 50 km return |
| 04 | Bavella and Ospedale | 120 km return |
| 05 | Pool and rest | 0 km |
| 06 | The Cavu river | 70 km return |
| 07 | Porto-Vecchio and the market | 40 km return |
Total distance: around 320 km over the week. Compare that with a classic tour of Corsica: 800 to 1,200 km. You save the driving time and gain in rest, in swimming, in evenings on the terrace.